This modern, friendly Red Sea city is a thriving business metropolis, a gateway for pilgrims on their way to Mecca, and a cosmopolitan melting pot of cultures in one of the world's most conservative kingdoms.
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| Men Praying on the roof of an old house at Al Balad, Jeddah |
Jeddah is the largest seaport on the Red Sea, the most open place in Arabia, and the country's second largest city, with a population of 3.4 million. It has long been the entry point for pilgrims on their way to Mecca and Medina for the Hajj, a journey all able - bodied Muslims must make at least once in their lives. Yet in contrast to this ancient religious tradition, it status as an international business hub also means that, unlike elsewhere in this conservative land, women don't have to cover their faces, and men and women are allowed to mix together.
Jeddah's history first began around 500BC, when Quda'a fishermen from Yemen settled in the area. Alexandr the Great even passed through it a few hundred years later, but its place on the world msp was only assured in the 7th century AD, when Caliph Uthame established the city as the official gateway to Mecca. Its fortunes have been linked to the Islamic world's holiest site, 50km to the east, ever since.
The face of Jeddah has been hugely influenced by the role it has played for the past millennium. Over the centuries hundreds of millions of pilgrims with different ethnicities and backgrounds - from Africa, Central and South Asia, Europe and the Middle East - have all passed this way, with two million more arriving every year. Some stayed and become residents, giving the city a rich cultural heritage, and making the most ethnically diverse place in the region. And another more recent trend has been added to the mix. The 20th century oil boom attracted hundreds of thousands of migrant workers, many from non - Muslim countries.
Nowhere is this diversity more in evidence than the old town, Al-Balad (literally the city) This was the site of the original fishing village, and it's always been at the heart of Jeddah, even if its protective walls were torn down in the 1940s. But during the oil bonanza of the 1970s, newly wealthy Jeddah's began moving out - because the streets were too narrow for their large cars. In their place, poorer immigrants moved in, turning this into the most cosmopolitan of neighbourhoods.
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| Old Town of Jeddah |
Al Balad is a blend of ancient an modern, where gleaming skyscrapers rub shoulders with crumbling old coral houses. It's a labyrinth of alleyways, mosques and squares, and fascinating to wander around. Many homes still have wooden balconies and latticework windows, which allowed cooling breezes in whilst the womenfolk inside could look out without being seen. The vibrant marketplaces are like a scene from the Arabian Nights, where vendors in traditional Hijazi dress sell everything from textiles and jewellery, to spices and honey. The Souq Al Alawi in particular is considered one of the best. It's a great place to find a bargain, which are easily obtained if you remember to haggle.
Not far from the old markets, upscale shopping centres with high - end fashion brands imported from Europe cater to wealthy local Saudis. International chains from Benetton and Mango to Zara and Espirit have turned this into the nation's undisputed shopping capital. But in contrast to the glass towers and air - conditioned malls. Biet Nassif is the restored former home of the Nassif family. This beautiful old building is now a cultural centre where ancient artefacts are on display, including a 700-year-old flagpole and a 15th century cannon.
You are never far from religion here, and there are hundreds of mosques in the city. But none are more picturesque than the white minarets and domes of the Floating Mosque, so-called because it is on the shoreline and appears to rise straight out of the water.
The mosque is just one highlight of the Corniche, a scenic coastal boulevard and the ciry's social heart, with the Red Sea on one side and trendy clubs and restaurants on the other. This is where you'll find many of the hundreds of sculptures that turn Jeddah into a huge outdoor gallery. Some are by international stars such as Henry Moore and Joan Miro. Since Islam prohibits the depiction of the human form in art , they reflect elements of traditional Saudi life, from incense burners to palm trees.
The Corniche is a favourite meeting spot for locals and visitors alike. When evening comes people gather here to chat, or simply to stroll as the sun sets over the Red Sea. Thanks to its arid climate there are rarely any clouds to spoil the view.
Also on the coast is something less natural, but just as spectacular. The King Fahd Fountain is the tallest in the world, spraying a jet of water higher than a skyscraper. Visible from across the city, it reaches almost 300 metres into the sky, while 500 spotlights at night turn it into an even more breathtaking show. Unusually, it uses saltwater, not fresh. The latter is a precious commodity in a place where little rain falls.
Jeddah's food reflects its culture. The restaurants serve everything from Middle Eastern, French and Italian, to Mexican and seafood. But it's traditional dishes such as Al Kabsa - rice cooked in a pot with lamb or chicken and spices - that reveal the city as it truly is a melting pot.
From giant fountains to floating mosques, and a relaxing melting pot of cultures, Jeddah is somewhere to whet any appetite. And it most certainly is 'different'.
Text by Tim Skelton, Photos by Michel L Huillier
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